The plan was to have lunch in Broadway Village and then head to Chippen Camden where my B&B hostess, Gen’e intends to pick me up at 7 PM. But I have lingered too much, gotten lost a bit too often and may not make it. I enter the Broadway Village lined with cottages, each with its unique garden filled with hollyhocks, lavender, climbing roses, lilacs and primroses. I can’t help but stop to admire gardens, ornate doors and gingerbread houses. I need to move in order to get to Chipping Campden, yet I stop to take photographs and relish. My doing and being voices are in battle.
Hungry, thirsty and sore, I slowly plod into the village center in search of a quaint teashop or restaurant for a cream tea (tea, scones with clotted cream), but end up choosing something more wholesome considering the journey ahead. Wanting to try the local food, I order kidney pie. Silly me. Kidney pie is not made from kidney beans; it’s made of kidney, the organ. I try it and nearly gag. I try again, hoping it will grow on me. I eat around the chewy kidney pieces, but just cannot avoid the strong flavor. My good intentions must be thrown out with the kidney pie.
I check the map and calculate that I can just make it into Chipping Campden, if I don’t get lost and refrain from taking pictures. On the way out of town, I meet a group of walkers and ask how long it will take. They advise me of the steep climb heading out of Broadway. I convince myself I will only be a little bit late if I pick up the pace and do not linger. This becomes the mantra as I climb the steep hill. I then wonder: Is this even steeper than Beacon Hill, or is it that I am tired and worn out? And continue to worry: Should I make the call now and give her ample warning, or can I still make it? I do so want to make it. Just a bit more and you’ll reach the top. Then you can figure out what is next. One step at a time.
I’m there. I take off my pack. I sit on the wood stump. I down the last of my water. I look at the view back down towards Broadway. The sky has turned gray. That wasn’t so bad. Ha! Eager to make my way, I take out the map. I’m at a fork with roads heading in three directions and a fourth path into the woods. No matter how I look at the map, none of the actual directions match the one towards Chipping Campden. There are no signs matching directions of places indicated on the map. Where am I? I know I went up the right hill because I asked and the signs did indicate so. Why is there no arrow pointing to the next path? It begins to sprinkle and I put on my slicker. The line is busy. I choose a direction to walk. I stop to look at the map taking out my reading glasses, as it is dark from the cloud cover. This can’t be right. I head back. I look at my watch. It is 60 minutes until my appointed meeting time. What do I do? I cannot even tell them where I am, because I am not sure where that is. I stop to call again. As I turn on the phone, a text message tells me I have 3 euros left on my mobile. This is an international call, so 3 euros may only be a few of minutes. In order to be expedient, I rehearse what I will say. I call and reach Barry, Gen’e’s husband. Embarrassed, I explain my situation— that I am lost and where I think I am according to the map. And then we are cut off. Oh no! Now what? I call again. I start explaining all over and ask him to call me back because my minutes are low. Confusion. I say I will follow the path to a picnic area to which I believe the footpath leads. Can Gen’e pick me up there? And then I am cut off. The phone has no more minutes.
I take the footpath through the woods following the signs to the picnic area. I often feel calm and nourished in the company of trees. At this time I am also protected from the rain. I am disappointed that I will not make it to my destination. I’ve fooled myself about being in the moment, as I am still so very goal and accomplishment oriented. I hope Barry was able to forward the message. I hope that Gen’e will not mind driving here to pick me up. I don’t want to inconvenience these hospitable people. How foolish they must find this American tourist who wants to walk, but can’t follow a map. My thoughts continue like this for a while, eventually lulled by the walking rhythm and held by the woods. It does not matter. I can go to Chipping Campden tomorrow. And Gen’e is a kind and gracious woman. Be still.
The wooded path twists and turns yet does end up heading in the direction of the picnic area. Phew! I relax and hope for another Green Man encounter. I then hear the sound of cars and the woods open to a clearing near a major crossroads. If Gen’e doesn’t come, I can always follow the signs or possibly hitch hike. Only minutes after arriving at the picnic area, Gen’e pulls up with a big smile on her face. And of course she is concerned rather than inconvenienced. Embarrassed and grateful, I tell her my story.
When we arrive at Brymbo, I take a luxurious, hot bubble bath, enjoy a light supper, and study the maps for tomorrow’s journey to Chippen Campden.
On subsequent days, I continue to experience the small demands of the journey merely reflecting my own inner challenges. Exertion, heat, thirst, hunger and knowing where I am going are the challenges of the moment that play with my inner demons. At the same time, there is the discovery of a tiny wild flower, the field of purple-blue cabbages, the noisy birdsong in passing a tree, the velvet softness of the wheat and barley fields, the contrast of blue sky and white cloud, the dead quiet in the church yard, the sound of a jet overhead, the friendly flower boxes lining a windowsill and the busy movement of bees. I walk with lots of chatter and anxiety. I stop often to take pictures. This is not a power walk to increase my heart rate; it is a saunter.
I am reminded of a passage I read in The Spell of the Sensuous by David Abram about his jeep ride in the outback of Australia. An aboriginal riding in the jeep is talking very fast. The western traveler is puzzled as to why the man is mumbling so quickly. As the jeep slows down from 40 mph to the pace of an adult walking, the aboriginal’s gibberish turns to discernible stories about the mountain in the distance, the well behind the large tree and the creatures moving across the land. This is walking with presence and reverence.